This entry is REALLY LONG as it's a day by day account of my 11-day trek in the Himalaya. So probably only of interest to those considering doing something similar or those with a strange interest in Em's meandering thoughts in the mountains whilst low on oxygen. It was a fabulous experience, the views were indescribable and my Sherpa guide Tenjing kept getting me drunk. OK, you can just skip to the photos now.
Day 1- 18 April
The alarm went off at 5.45am and I awoke to find the room mercifully free of cockroaches. Last minute bits of packing done, I left my 60L bag with Mountain Peace Guest House, and took my day bag and duffel bag into a car with my guide Tenjing Sherpa and we were off to the airport. The "7.45am" flight didn't actually leave till about 8.45am, but I managed to snag one of the 5 left-side window seats in the tiny prop plane, meaning I got an awfully scenic (albeit awfully stomach-plunging) view of the Himalayas. In the course of the 30-minute flight, the difference between the hazy smoke of Kathmandu and the brilliant clear blue of Lukla was striking. My lungs are so happy to finally be in the mountains!!
Incidentally, Kathmandu is the most dangerous airport in the world, as many of their departing flights never reach their destination and no Nepalese airline is allowed to fly into Europe, because their safety standards are not up to scratch. As I've had to say so many times on this trip- sorry, mum.
Tenjing and I met up with our porter Ponuru- he was soon declared to be a lucky guy because porters normally carry gear for 2 trekkers- as I'm going solo, he has a half load! The Sherpas deserve every iota of respect - as well as those hauling trekkers' gear, there is a continuous trail of men and women hauling up all the goods that stock the shops, restaurants and bars. I've been passed by countless men with caseloads of San Miguel on their backs, supported solely by a forehead strap. There are bars aplenty along the way and the 600 rupee price tag for a can of crappy lager suddenly doesn't seem so extortionate when you know every drop has to be flown from Kathmandu to Lukla then carried on a man's back onwards.
After a breakfast of chukpa porridge (eaten in the kitchen, which as every introvert knows is the best place to be, while Mama bustled around and tried to force additional portions of tea and noodles down Tenjing), we were off on foot. It was about 3 hours walking today and much of it was downhill, so plenty of opportunity to take in the stunning scenery. The path goes through many villages. Most of the buildings lining the path cater to trekkers, either selling TP and Snickers, or offering lodging and meals. I quickly discovered that Tenjing's family run many of the establishments lining the path to EBC, which - while nepotistic - is actually fantastic because he's been taking me to hang out with them, rather than leaving me with the rest of the tourists. His family owns the comfy lodge I'm staying in tonight. When we reached it and dropped the bags, he asked if I'd like to accompany him into Phakding village. So glad I did because it was such an opportunity to see how the community spends their downtime. We stopped by a snooker hall first, literally just a wooden shack with 2 snooker tables inside, patronised exclusively by Nepalis. After losing spectacularly there, we headed to his uncle's reggae bar across the street so I could lose at pool a few more times.
It being a family joint, we were all plied with far too much rum (so much for not drinking on the trek, I ended up the tipsiest I've been since Dutchie's birthday in Udaipur) with no money changing hands- suck it other tourists who have to pay Rs.700 ($7) for each shot! Our last stop of the evening was the kitchen of another joint - yet more rum! - where P, T, and a young lady spoke animatedly about their families and children.
Even without speaking a word of Nepali, I loved the homely atmosphere and the opportunity to experience the culture as really lived by people. Had a dinner of dal bhat (I expect there will be much more of that), and somehow ended up with another glass of rum, before winding my way up to the surprisingly comfy bed in the wooden room.
Day 2 - 19 April
Alarm was set for a lie-in of 7am, but I was awoken at 5.43 by the jangling of yak bells passing beneath my window. Toto, we're not in Lewisham anymore.
The 6 hour walk today was even more beautiful. The path was uphill much of the time and crossed the river via bouncing metal suspension bridge several times.
The smell of the pine trees was relaxing and happily a far more frequent olfactory experience than the waves of donkey and yak urine that occasionally engulf one. We walked through villages all morning then had lunch in the final settlement - it was then about 3 hours uphill slog to Namche Bazar. Namache is a happening town! There's a hair salon, a Starbucks, even a Comfort Inn. After dropping the bags, the three of us headed out. None of the tourist trappings for us though - T wanted to check out shoes in a few shops and see friends at the SPCC, but then we headed way off the tourist drag to the home of a friend of his. In a dark room, walls covered in pots and pans, child on the loose with a bow & arrow, we were served a massive jug full of raksi made in that home. Raksi is the local moonshine and probably a helluva lot stronger than anything I should be drinking at 3,343 metres. The taste is somewhat similar to sake, being a rice-based liquor. As Patrick wrote, we'd tried it on Karmi Farm and at the Kathmandu monastery restaurant, but this one was far stronger. I was severely intimidated by the size of the glass poured for me- little did I know that under a certain level the glass would magically fill itself up again, courtesy of the lady of the house coming around with the kettle she presumably brews it in. Needless to say, I somewhat swam out for our walk to eventually continue. With one or two more stops along the way, we ended up back at Hotel Tibet (same name as the hotel our first night in Kathmandu was) and - blessed be - I have an en suite bathroom with HOT SHOWER!!!! Coincidentally, my first shower since the other Hotel Tibet our first night in Kathmandu, as I couldn't summon up the courage to bathe in the freezing cold rusty yellow water of Mountain Peace the other 4 nights in town. Hot shower meaning there's about .001mm difference between snow melt freezing and actually boiling! I found that magic paper thin point and I am clean again! I'm writing this entry post shower so I don't fall into a raksi-induced coma and miss my dal bhat dinner.
Scenic natural wonders and boozy encounters with locals aside, two of the other best moments of the day were cuddling a kitten as it smiled and purred at me, and petting a baby yak that started nuzzling my leg for more attention when I tried to leave. Hurrah for the adoration of baby animals!
Energy levels are good, heart is ticking (albeit fairly quickly during the uphill climbs now we're above 3000m), knees are mostly cooperating and only sign of altitude is a bit of huffing and puffing, and occasionally tingly digits courtesy of diamox.
Till tomorrow! (I think it will be an early night, post dal).
[Post-dinner addendum- I love eating in kitchens. While all the other Aussie-Euro-Americans were relegated to the actual dining room, I got to hang out with all the guides and Sherpas - the guys that actually make this possible - and watch the big family bustle around making food for dozens. Success!]
Day 3- 20 April
Whoops.
Day 4- 21 April.
Well, in the spirit of honesty, I must confess I missed yesterday's entry because I was too drunk. The 20th was a rest\acclimatisation day, spent again in lovely Namche. We started out going for a short hike further uphill to find a wonderful statue of local (and international) hero Tenzig Norgay, with an impressive view of Everest in the background.
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| Taller than Everest! |
It's so tantalisingly close and it's impossible to describe the sheer awe of being surrounded by the immensity of these land masses. Endless superlatives will never capture the feeling of being engulfed by the largest mountains on earth and the absolute awesomeness (in its true meaning, not like a hot dog,
see Eddie Izzard for the reference) of nature. I'm probably sounding like
Gap Yah guy right now (YouTube it if you're not familiar). Our group of 3 stopped into the little museum there, about the national park, then into the Sherpa Cultural Centre, which focussed on the many expeditions to the summit, as well as a recreation of a traditional Sherpa home (looks a lot like the places I've been drinking raksi).
I was actually surprised how much focus Edmund Hillary got, but apparently post-1953 summit, he did a lot of great work for the Sherpas and education in Nepal, building schools and starting training programmes.
Post lunch, we were out on the town again, this time accompanied by T's uncle, who is also P's father. P sensibly stuck to coffee, while T and I somehow got through 2 jugs of raksi, uncle polished off 2 jugs of chhaang (another home-brewed rice-based liquor, this one milk-coloured rather than clear), then an entire massive thermos of chhaang appeared that somehow the 3 of us boozers finished. It's a miracle I didn't have to return to the hotel on the back of a yak.
So, that was yesterday. Today was about 6 hours trekking that undoubtedly went through some of the most beautiful landscapes ever seen, but I spent most of it trying not to be sick. Also the path was incredibly dusty and mostly in bright sun so between my cap pulled down and my bandana pulled up, my
eyes firmly planted on the ground so as not to trip on rocks, I only really got to enjoy the views during breaks. Which there were plenty of. The first 3 hours were fairly easy downhill, descending all the way down into the valley, back to river side. All those hard-earned metres, which then had to be wrestled back, with interest, post-lunch.
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| Tenjing, Em and Nuru- dream team! |
Namche was 3440m and we've stopped for the night in a small settlement called Tengboche, at 3867m, and how I wish it had just been a simple matter of going 427m up rather than descending so far first! Today made me feel how horribly out of shape I've become this year. Turns out cycling 100+ miles a week, going to the gym and training for triathlons makes you a lot more competent at climbing mountains than staring out the windows of an overlanding truck for 9500km. So does being sober.
About 20 minutes before reaching tonight's teahouse we stopped outside a monastery. It was impressive not just in its scale and bright colours, but what a feat building such a structure so high up must have been!
This afternoon I'm certainly avoiding all excursions that might involve alcohol. Tea and dal and bed for me!
Day 5- 22 April
Early start this morning, but we arrived at Dingboche, location for the next two nights in just 4 hours, about 11.30am. The morning was sunny with the glorious blue skies behind the many snow-capped mountains. We mainly followed the path of the river, going gently (more gently than yesterday anyway) uphill. None of these steep descents that just have to be climbed up again.
Last night's teahouse in Tengboche was really busy- the dining room was really cosy as the heating stove in the middle of the room was on, but there were far too many people for me, so I retreated to my room for some quiet before dinner. Comparatively, the trail was almost deserted today. There are many many different trails in this area, so people might cross paths in a teahouse and not see each other again. One woman I've been running into since day one is Preeta, from near Mumbai. She has a son with cerebral palsy and I think (if I gathered correctly) is making the walk to EBC for him. She wrote down a
YouTube video she made, which I promised to watch when on WiFi again.
The most traffic on our path today was in the form of a slow-moving yak train we had to overtake.
What did strike me suddenly was how instantly the vegetation has changed. We were in pine forests yesterday and in the space of a moment today, it was rocky scrubland, just short little bushes jutting through.
I feel fine altitude-wise, even now being above 4000m, but I spent another day with terrible nausea. I think I can stop blaming the raksi 2 days later, and accept some sort of bacteria has lodged in my stomach. Also, I still miss my cyclist's legs.
As of day 5, I finally broke and paid 350 rupees for a 100MB WiFi code to use my phone and send some WhatsApps and emails. Connectivity in the wilds of nature!
Day 6- 23 April
Halfway there! Also - hurrah - a day without nausea! Whatever bacterium that was in my system has finally been expelled, one way or another. Today was a rest and acclimatisation day in Dingboche, so a nice lie-in till 7.30, then a hike up into the mountain (well probably hill, or by Himalayan standards, anthill) above the town to get the lungs used to less oxygen. It was very dusty and quite steep, but 360-degree views of many peaks, with a few Buddhist stupas along the way. I've taken countless photos along the lines of blue skies, grey mountains with white peaks, with the rainbow of prayer flags in the foreground. It's such a picturesque scene and representative of what I see much of the time (that isn't my boots slowly shuffling along).
After lunch, the fellas and I went to another backroom bar\home, and I was somehow cajoled into a glass of rum, but at least I managed to stay strong by insisting "one peck only!" when refills came around, even though a peck is still larger than an English double measure. We then spent some time in the dark and smoky snooker hall, where I was the only woman not serving drinks and the only non-Nepali.
The G Adventures group is staying at the same teahouse these two nights in Dingboche, and as I had such a great time with that company in Tanzania on safari last July, I'd looked at their EBC trek, as it follows almost exactly the same path as Nepal Spirit Adventure. Seeing their camaraderie in the dining room is touching, and a bit bittersweet knowing that might have been my group, but the experience of being brought into Nepali homes and experiencing hospitality on such an individual level is something no group trek can offer! Undoubtedly the lovely Aussies and Brits would have welcomed me into their card games and conversations these last two nights anyway, but alas my introversion won out and I retreated into my book.
The 25th is the one year anniversary of the earthquake that killed so many and destroyed so much in 2015. Its memory is like a spectre along the way- the people are all cheery and don't seem to dwell on it, though many of those we meet must have lost loved ones at the worst, or had their livelihoods severely impacted at the least. There is rebuilding work everywhere we go, in various stages- from piles of rubble, to construction underway, to newly built and gleaming structures. The signs are everywhere, in cracked stupas and in the poles helping to support buildings still standing. T told me that the village where his family lives was badly impacted - 50 of the 90 homes there were destroyed, but many of his previous clients sent donations to help rebuild. P's brother was at the teahouse last night, and P took his Samsung tablet to show me photos of the rebuilt school in their village that's just been finished. It's inspiring to see how quickly rebuilding is happening, with the support of well wishers from around the world. T also told me that some of his friends are at EBC now but leaving today as they don't want to be there on the anniversary, as several people died in the camp, when the earthquake triggered an avalanche. In such a close knit community (the Sherpas all seem to know each other from working the same routes, if not actually related), it's devastating to think of the impact of such a huge loss all at once. What a testament to the Nepali people at how they continue. It's also heartening that trekkers aren't put off the region by perceived danger, as the rupees are so necessary for the rebuilding process.
Day 7- 24 April
One week into the trek! It's now the longest walk I've ever done and also the longest I've ever been without seeing a car. Only motorised vehicles in sight since the 18th have been helicopters, on sightseeing, rescue, and supply flights. In other news, I feel amazing! Woke up to find Dingboche covered in a beautiful dusting of snow. Not enough to cause any trouble to the walk, just a pleasing crunch under foot. Also ate solid food for the first time in days- French toast, macaroni with tomato sauce, and dal bhat were much needed after days of soup. As such the anticipated 5-6 hour trek to Lobouche only took 4'ish and seemed quite easy, though we're now above 4900m. Most of the walk was flat or only gradually sloping. Lots of the low little bushes, but looking much prettier under some snow. Walked through some yak pastures and had to overtake a herd of the same.
Had to hop stones across a stream and couldn't resist the urge to break some of the ice with my stick. As usual, in endless awe of the jutting mountains on all sides, so sharp against the crisp blue sky. The path also went through a memorial to those who have died on Everest. I saw a Ukrainian name, a Greek Orthodox cross, and dedications to far too many Sherpas.
The teahouses have been getting humbler along the way, just made of apparently stapled together plywood boards.
This one doesn't even have a sink, just a bucket with tap, BUT it does have a sun room which made for a warm afternoon reading spot, before I retreated to my blankets before the dining room and its cosy stove in the middle.
EBC tomorrow!
Day 8- 25 April
Mission success! Pretty easy walk from Lobouche to Gorakshep (5170m), following along the (remains of the) Khombu Glacier.
Bloody cold start to the morning though- wasn't able to use my fake-brand camelbak due to its contents freezing! Took a few hours for the pipe to finally thaw enough for me to drink on the move. Tried to brush my teeth this morning, but of course the tap on the bucket wouldn't budge- reached my toothbrush into the bucket to break the ice up, but no luck- happily I had the foresight to bring Plax as an oral hygiene backup :-)
At Gorakshep, took a bit of a break, had some tea and soup, then on the last stretch to Base Camp! All plant life has given up at this height- even the dying grass that was optimistically trying to reach through the rocks a bit lower down despite hungry yaks is gone- just rocks and dust from here. The first stretch from Gorakshep was like a sandy beach, then it got very rocky.
T and I got to Base Camp (5364m) in about 90 minutes, just before noon. Its bright orange and yellow tents had been visible most of the morning, and along the path I finally got my first peek at the actual peak (it's always been behind clouds before). We didn't go into the camp proper- I think that honour is reserved for those mad (and rich) few who actually attempt a summit, but the bright collection of flags and stones with writing were a joyful welcome.
Reaching EBC didn't bring the same exuberant sense of accomplishment scaling Kili did, in part because it was lacking in some of the ritual. My Kili summit started about midnight, and I remember at one point looking down the mountain and seeing a long snake of headlamps in the below freezing cold pitch dark, all pushing forward to the same goal. Reaching that famous sign just as sun broke at the roof of Africa was indescribable. I'm thrilled to have reached EBC, but wandering up at noon to a place that is just the beginning for others is a bit different- and you can't even see Everest from the Camp! She's beyond a glacier, behind another mountain! This trek was truly about the journey, not the destination.
If I'm grimacing in any photos, it's because I was desperate for a pee as we approached the camp, hoping there would be a friendly toilet tent! Alas! T told me to find a nice rock, but I declared them all to be in view of too many people and tried to hold it. Walking back through the ice and past bits of glacier did it though. I found myself crawling and scrambling across avalanche rubble to find a big enough boulder to shield my pasty bum, then (dear Reader, we've been through enough together at this point, I feel I can share this), ended up with a knee each on two different rocks, tights\undies\trousers as low as I dared, semi-kneeling, balancing over a crevice. Isn't it ironic, when you find yourself pining for a well-placed tree to do a normal bush wee behind. If the Frenchmen up above saw any of this nonsense, they were gentlemanly enough not to mention it when they passed by when I was back on the path.
Perhaps it was the undignified pee that inspired me, but back at the teahouse in Gorakshep, I spent much of the afternoon attempting what beauty regime I could with limited means- mainly just tweezing my eyebrows, moisturising my skin, brushing the dust out of my hair, using several cotton buds in my ears, and attempting a bird bath in the sink with water that was very recently ice. Two more sleeps till Namche and its hot shower and WiFi!
Day 9- 26 April
My feet don't really resemble feet any more, turns out what I thought were a multitude of freckles on my legs is actually a thick layer of dust, and my knee is swearing like a sailor. It's just about 3.30pm and I've been walking most of the hours since 5am. Up at 4.30am to go actually summit the only peak of the trip, Kala Patthar.
At 5545m, also the highest altitude I'll reach. Fantastic views of Everest's peak on the way up, but the real magic was seeing the rosy glow over little Gorakshep, then the first rays of sunlight hitting the snow on the peaks surrounding us. Utterly magical. Would say breathtaking, but that's a given, with a steep uphill climb at high altitude. Some climbing across stones was necessary, which is never my favourite, but otherwise most of the path was gravelly, which makes for easier walking than sand.
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| Gorakshep at sunrise |
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| Everest peak |
Back at the teahouse for breakfast and packing, then we were on the road by 9am. Downhill most of the way today, and it's amazing how quickly the vegetation changes with lower altitude, from just lichen on rocks, to tentative little purple flowers peeking out, to stumpy bushes growing progressively taller. We zoomed along, only stopping once (to let the dust left by a herd of yaks settle) before lunch in Thukla (4200m, over a kilometre lower in altitude than where I started the day!). Saw a girl named Emma I'd met days ago, but she too caught a stomach bug, so has been delayed in reaching EBC. After lunch we powered through mile after mile of ups and downs (and luckily long straight sections too), through Pheriche (according to the schedule, our stop for the night) and along streams and through fields. My right knee has becoming more vocal about its displeasure in being used to descend steep slopes and I have really slowed. We made a tea stop, where I witnessed P bring a bird back to life. It had flown into a window, so he carried it outside and put it on a wall. It teetered for a bit, then keeled over on its back, legs stiff in the air. Dead bird. A few minutes later, P went back out, picked up the body and blew in its face. It ruffled its feathers and stood quite at ease on its own two legs after that. Hope he's not too brain-addled that he can't remember to fly though.
Eventually Pengboche came into sight and it's a lovely teahouse with wonderful views from my bedroom. Hopefully a good night's sleep here after two restless nights.
Day 10- 27 April
Back in lovely Namche Bazar and I am CLEAN! After a nearly deserted trail yesterday, passed quite a lot more people today, which meant clouds of dust. Just under a 6 hour walk, albeit with me going incredibly slowly on the steep descents, as my knee was screaming less than 90 minutes into today's trek. The last few hours were a repeat of earlier days, including passing by the dramatic monastery again.
I remember what an uphill slog it was to reach the first time- going down the same path was much more painful. Once back in Namche, I gave the bustling city a miss the second time round and just used WiFi in the nearby coffee shop (Rs.215 for an Americano and 1 hour of WiFi is the best deal I've seen the entire trek) and tried to make myself look human again, courtesy of my en-suite shower. The food at Hotel Tibet is really excellent, although the portions are massive- after a plate of pasta so big I could only finish 2/3 even though I was feeling really hungry at lunch, I just had a (fabulous) garlic soup for dinner, though treated myself to a well-deserved apple pie, which was more like a very large pasty.
Have been reading hours every day, but as this year's Booker Prize winner "A Brief History of Seven Killings" is well over 600 pages long, it's been the same book for days, no matter how many hours I put into it. 75% of the way through, I'm getting into the groove of it, but knowing nothing of Jamaican politics in the 1970s, I spent the first half very confused. At least I can mostly understand the patois.
Day 11- 28 April
The final day of trekking saw us do Namche to Lukla, with just a lunch-stop in Phakding, and what a relief to pass the checkpoint at Lukla and settle into the lodge. Two aching feet, a shin splint in my left leg, disintegrating right knee, and sore shoulders have declared 11 straight days of trekking to be my limit. The paths were the same as on days 1 and 2 and we're spending the night at the lodge where we had breakfast the first day. Phew!!! Excited to take off these dusty boots and get into pyjamas, the closest thing to clean clothes I have remaining.
IN SUMMATION.... (2 May)
It's been a few days since my last day of trekking, so I'm finishing up this ridiculously long post from Sunrise Farm in Kathmandu (details in next post). Returning to Lukla was obviously cause for celebration, so Tenjing and I hit the town. Not the tourist bars of course, but friends' homes well off the main street. Too much raksi, followed by too much San Miguel! Having a guide isn't strictly necessary for the EBC trek, but trekking with Tenjing was worth it just for the experience of Nepali hospitality I enjoyed on so many occasions. Nuru had left the lodge earlier to meet up with friends before his day-long walk home, but we met up with him in another establishment. He was apparently very happy with the tip I'd given him earlier and he presented me with a silk scarf I wore whilst stumbling back to the teahouse. T and I carried the duffel bag between us early the next morning to the airport, which is just at the edge of the little town. However, after many hours it was declared too windy for the planes and we gave up and went back to the teahouse. It was so relaxing to spend the whole day ensconced in my kindle. In one sitting, I read the last 10% of "Brief History of Seven Killings," the entirety of Paulo Coelho's "Adultery," and the first 20% of "The Master & Margarita." From 1970s Jamaica to modern Switzerland to 1930s Soviet Union! We got the first flight out of Lukla the next morning and then it was back into the madness of Thamel while I sorted my bags out and figured out transport to the farm.
Trekking the Himalaya was a magnificent experience and I'm glad I didn't end up with a group. Tenjing and Nuru were fantastic support, but I also enjoyed the solitude and quiet of being in the mountains without hoards of people. Shortly before the end of the trek, I was told my Grandma passed away on the 22nd, just two months after my other Nana. It made a very sad last few days, especially not being with any friends or family for support, but there was no better place for reflection and to mourn the loss of two grandmothers on my own.
I hope I can return to Nepal (in better shape!) and finally break 6000m in the next few years. If anyone is thinking about trekking the Himalaya, go with Tenjing!
Happy Nepali Mother's Day (from Friday the 6th)! Yesterday was momo night AND a blessed day without rice, so really there's cause for celebration all over. I've been here at Sunrise Farm since leaving Lukla on the 30th but it feels like much longer than a week. Though the farm is more urban (about 1km from the monkey temple, if I can mention that without Patrick getting PTSD) than the rural setting I was imagining, life is definitely back to basics here. This would be the longest I've slept in the same bed since January, but my sleeping quarters are a mat on the floor. The toilet is the squat variety in a shed outside and the shower is a pipe coming down from the rainwater tank into the other side of the shed. Shower temperature is controlled by the sun, so I've been aiming for late afternoon showers to maximise the day's heat. That being said, nothing fazes me much anymore and I'm very comfortable here and fell into a routine quickly. Despite the simplicity of the living quarters, and Kathmandu electricity only working a few hours a day, the WiFi is the best I've experienced since leaving home!
The work I've been doing has been about 75% farm work/gardening and 25% sanding and painting windows and doors on the main building, which is being repaired post-earthquake.
